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Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 10:06 am
by EMG
Yeah it was not a very difficult trek really. Pretty average for me and the cool weather made it very pleasant. I would've pushed a lot more had I been on my own.

(Mods can move this to travel journalism)

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 10:16 am
by fishface
Why was it so dusty?

Sorry if that's a stupid question. Is it due to dryness from being at altitude? I've never actually been very high up for long unless I'm in an aeroplane.

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 10:17 am
by fishface
Great photos too. All that snow must have been a bit of a shock to the system after being in the Philippines.

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 10:21 am
by EMG
fishface wrote:
Fri Mar 08, 2019 10:16 am
Why was it so dusty?

Sorry if that's a stupid question. Is it due to dryness from being at altitude? I've never actually been very high up for long unless I'm in an aeroplane.
Kathmandu has almost no pavement. It's all just dirt roads everywhere. Maybe during their rainy seasons it's not so bad, but I guess it's just tens of thousands of cars and motorbikes riding up and down dirt roads all day. There was a constant cake of dust throughout the city.

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2019 3:50 am
by fishface
Ahh thanks. I wondered if it was simple as that but then thought I was being a bit uneducated as to what Kathmandu actually looks like.

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2019 6:21 am
by DCComic
That’s odd. I don’t remember dirt roads in Khathmandu. It’s very polluted from fire smoke and engine exhaust, and it sits in a bowl of hills that trap the sht in the air. Little or no street cleaning of course. The hills around are severely deforested so the soil is eroding very quickly too.

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2019 12:07 pm
by EMG
DCComic wrote:
Sat Mar 09, 2019 6:21 am
That’s odd. I don’t remember dirt roads in Khathmandu. It’s very polluted from fire smoke and engine exhaust, and it sits in a bowl of hills that trap the sht in the air. Little or no street cleaning of course. The hills around are severely deforested so the soil is eroding very quickly too.
This was pretty much my experience: https://www.theguardian.com/cities/gall ... -expansion

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2019 12:11 pm
by DCComic
Jesus.
Poor old city.
What a mess.

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Sat Mar 09, 2019 12:26 pm
by EMG
Yeah. My GF and I agreed it may be the only city in the world we've visited that made Manila seem orderly and clean.

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Sun Mar 10, 2019 7:11 am
by simon_in_exile
muthafunky wrote:
Thu Mar 07, 2019 1:13 am
I’d cry because of the snow obscuring the great views
It’s a good excuse to return!

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Sun Mar 10, 2019 9:43 pm
by EMG
Most of the snow days were heavy forest treks. I think the snow improved the scenery

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Sun Mar 10, 2019 10:25 pm
by Lost Soul
Snow is our friend.

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Mon Mar 11, 2019 12:05 am
by Bill Barilko
Lost Soul wrote:
Sun Mar 10, 2019 10:25 pm
Snow is our friend.
Snow makes the Best Gift if you're a Salmon.

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Tue Mar 12, 2019 8:25 am
by desertstorm
The body of a Dutch hiker and his guide were found today around Annapurna (Pisang), they started the hike on 20th Feb, they were likely caught in an avalanche. Their last message was that they would turn back because of bad weather.

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Tue Mar 12, 2019 8:40 am
by EMG
Yikes.

Not anyone you know?

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Tue Mar 12, 2019 12:56 pm
by desertstorm
No. The one I know is safe and sound waiting for his flight to meet me.

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Tue Mar 12, 2019 1:00 pm
by EMG
I guess they weren't kidding about the conditions being bad further up the trail. 2-20 is two days before I started my trek. They must've gotten caught in the thick of it way up there.

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Thu Mar 14, 2019 1:46 pm
by polardude1
Brings back memories. I did the whole circuit in 1989, before the road to Jomson was put in. Times have changed

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Wed Mar 20, 2019 8:20 pm
by steveogolf
Nice photos. I did the same hike in 1982, but I had my own "guide" who carried my heavier things on his back. I carried just a day pack But we had perfect weather, no snow. It was in December or January. We hiked to Poon Hill and stayed overnight in the houses that were in the villages. No camping.
On that same trip I also did the "Instant Everest" hike (8 days) -- flights from KTM to and from Lukla, and then hiking up to about 17,000 feet past the Thangboche Monastary to (Dingboche) and back.

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 2:51 am
by EMG
Must've been very different back then, Steve.

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 12:46 pm
by polardude1
I did the hike in April. I had a bit of snow when approaching Torung La Pass. In 2014 there was a freak blizzard in the Annapurna region that trapped hundreds of hikers on the trail
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2014_Nepa ... m_disaster

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 2:01 pm
by EMG
Wow! Hadn't heard of that one. Sounds awful.

They seemed pretty cautious about letting people follow certain routes when I was there. Everyone was turned around from the basecamp trek. There were police/military checkpoints at a few locations where you had to check in and inform them where you were headed. They'd stamp your TIMS/ACAP card, which you're required to get before starting your trek.

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 2:51 pm
by polardude1
Aside from check points to check permits, there was very little regulation when I was there in 1989. Doctors Without Borders did have a clinic in Menang, though. It as the last major village before ascending the Throung la Pass. The doctors offered short lectures on alititude sickness and they had a hyperbaric tent.

When I read about the blizzard, what struck me is that a lot of trekkers tried getting over the pass to Muktinath. They should have tried their best to return to the bunk in Phedi. There was simply and understandably a lot of panic

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 6:08 pm
by steveogolf
EMG: If you want even more scenic mountain (alpine) hiking I can tell you about the very best region to go to see the most without having to do any camping or having to carry a heavy pack:
I have hiked in the Himalayas, the Andes, the Alps, and the Rockies, BUT THE VERY BEST OF ALL IS:
The Canadian Rockies, and there are fabulous day hikes (if you start early and walk fast with just a day packi) where you can cover 3 times the distance that the multi-day backpackers cover, in just ONE FULL DAY and be back at your hostel or hotel for dinner and sleep in a comfortable bed.
(1). The very best of these is The Berg Lake Trail about 1 hour by car west of Jasper where the trail has everything: forest, waterfalls, glacial lakes, and glaciers. It is a long day hike but start very early and it can be done in one full day up to the lake at the top that fronts the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies, to wit, Mount Robson. This hike is in the Mount Robson Provincial Park -- NOT in Banff National Park or Jasper National Park. There is a visitor center near the trailhead, but it is not yet open when you would want to start your hike early. Your may have to register the afternoon beforehand, but when I did it years ago they did not require any registration to do day hikes there. Check it out.
There are a great many other, and shorter day hikes in Banff and Jasper National Parks. My favorites include:
(2). Iceline Trail in Yoho National Park (stay at the hostel, Whiskey Jack Hostel, which is located right at the trailhead which has a fantastic view of the tall waterfall in the Park from its balcony --- a great hostel. There is also the Twin Lakes Trail in this area that is easily accessible from the hostel.
(3). The hike from Moraine Lake up to the Continental Divide -- it is a crowded trail and the most popular day hike in the Canadian Rockies, but a very doable 1/2 day for up and back, or continue down the other side from the top into Paradise Valley and walk back to the highway, but you'll need transportation to get back to your car (or use two cars with one parked at the Paradise Valley trailhead to get back to the Moraine Lake parking lot.
(4). A day hike from Lake O'Hara campground to the Yukness Ledges/Wixay Gap/etc in Yoho National Park which is also a great scenic alpine hike -- you must pre-book bus transport into Lake O'Hara from the Yoho Visitor Center as cars are not allowed -- you get bused into the camping area, but you don't have to camp but can do any of about 3 great alpine day hikes there, and return to Banff or to Lake Louise in the late afternoon. Or spend one or two nights camping to further explore this beautiful area that has other scenic hikes.
There are several other great hikes too numerous to mention.
The best 2 week period to do these hikes is: The last 2 weeks of July after the trails are clear of snow but before the hordes of tourists which come in August.
The only thing "missing" from these hikes is that they are not in Third World and in Developing Countries, so there is no "Cultural Experience" involved, just fabulous alpine scenery.

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 6:56 pm
by Homerj
Add in a seriously good chance of seeing grizzlies, big horns, and elk as well as a shit ton of bald eagles.
Actually all you have to do is go to banff in september and the fucking elk are everywhere, no hiking required, that and about 1 million Chinese/Japanese tourists.
Gambei!

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 7:09 pm
by polardude1
2). Iceline Trail in Yoho National Park (stay at the hostel, Whiskey Jack Hostel, which is located right at the trailhead which has a fantastic view of the tall waterfall in the Park from its balcony
I hike part of that trail and spent a few nights at Whisky jack in 1984

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Thu Mar 21, 2019 11:43 pm
by Scrubb
steveogolf wrote:
Wed Mar 20, 2019 8:20 pm
On that same trip I also did the "Instant Everest" hike (8 days) -- flights from KTM to and from Lukla, and then hiking up to about 17,000 feet past the Thangboche Monastary to (Dingboche) and back.
Dingpoche is at well under 15,000 feet. Everest base camp is 17,600 - did you go all the way there?

I planned to go to base camp, but felt really awful that day and ended up turning back. I did get up Kala Patthar, which I see is at 18,500 ft.

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Fri Mar 22, 2019 4:52 am
by Lost Soul
Homerj wrote:
Thu Mar 21, 2019 6:56 pm
Add in a seriously good chance of seeing grizzlies, big horns, and elk as well as a shit ton of bald eagles.
Actually all you have to do is go to banff in september and the fucking elk are everywhere, no hiking required, that and about 1 million Chinese/Japanese tourists.
Gambei!
The 50 mile highway from Jasper to Hinton is the best for seeing large mammals. And it's really only the 20 miles closest to Jasper that you have to drive to see everything from the car cocoon.

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Fri Mar 22, 2019 7:06 pm
by steveogolf
Scrubb wrote:
Thu Mar 21, 2019 11:43 pm
steveogolf wrote:
Wed Mar 20, 2019 8:20 pm
On that same trip I also did the "Instant Everest" hike (8 days) -- flights from KTM to and from Lukla, and then hiking up to about 17,000 feet past the Thangboche Monastary to (Dingboche) and back.
Dingpoche is at well under 15,000 feet. Everest base camp is 17,600 - did you go all the way there?

I planned to go to base camp, but felt really awful that day and ended up turning back. I did get up Kala Patthar, which I see is at 18,500 ft.
No, I did not go to Base Camp. Why? Because of the extra time required, to wit, one full day required to acclimatize if going higher than Dingboche, plus the 2 or 3 days in each direction to get to Base Camp. Dingboche was enough for me -- good views from there of Everest, Nupse, and the third peak, forgot its name.
Gone there, done that in the Everest Region. I won't go back.

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Fri Mar 22, 2019 8:22 pm
by muthafunky
I didn't go to base camp but I did go to Kala Pattar, which has better views. You can see base camp from Kala Pattar, too. I'd happily go back, I probably should before I get too old and decrepit.

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Sat Mar 23, 2019 10:04 am
by Andrea1
muthafunky wrote:
Fri Mar 22, 2019 8:22 pm
I didn't go to base camp but I did go to Kala Pattar, which has better views. You can see base camp from Kala Pattar, too. I'd happily go back, I probably should before I get too old and decrepit.
Yes, you should. My time trekking in Nepal was amazing, and I did the 'easiest' - Pokhara to Muktinath route. I'm too old and decrepit to go back and do it again, or one of the other, harder routes, now.

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Mon Mar 25, 2019 10:00 pm
by Scrubb
muthafunky wrote:
Fri Mar 22, 2019 8:22 pm
I didn't go to base camp but I did go to Kala Pattar, which has better views. You can see base camp from Kala Pattar, too. I'd happily go back, I probably should before I get too old and decrepit.
Me too. I might already be too old and decrepit, though.

Re: Nepal/Annapurna Report

Posted: Sat Mar 30, 2019 9:17 pm
by mad hatter
I listened to Andrew Skurka, the US hiking entrepreneur/explorer of the year 2007?, talking about hiking in the CONUS, he made some about about being able to hike for the next 7 years (or something like that) without thinking about it such is the depth of opportunity in your countries/continent.

His Co do hiking and treking tours/courses/expeditions - they look very good.